Sustainable Dining: Backyard Kitchen + Brew x Green Pastures x Grace Park
The local food and beverage industry recently went through a number of trends. There were those which ended up as fads like the croughnuts; but there were some which has gained strong footing into our dining lifestyle, evident in the endless posts of ramen on Instagram, and the infectious ramen weather condition. It seems that the farm-to-table concept belongs to the latter category.
As diners become more conscious about their dining habits, and aided by an increase in their purchasing power; anything wholesome, organic, and green, continue to be an ‘in’ thing today.
Apart from these, a number of these restaurants show that they have "heart" as they also establish mutually beneficial relationships with local farming communities; providing them a more sustainable and fair means of living, while ascertaining a level of quality and freshness in the produce sourced.
Due to the influx of restaurants adhering to this sustainable dining concept, I’ve decided to make a new series solely devoted in finding out what to eat (and what to avoid) for ease in comparison.
BACKYARD KITCHEN+BREW
First up on the chopping board is Chef Ed Bugia’s latest venture, Backyard Kitchen + Brew.
SINIGANG NA BATCHOY (P195)
We started off with the intriguing Filipino mashup, the Sinigang na Batchoy. Pork offal takes the place of the traditional pork meat pieces found in this classic sour soup broth. The egg noodles and boiled egg make up the batchoy part of the dish, while the kamias broth represents the sinigang part. This dish will definitely pique one’s curiosity; but the oiliness of the soup and the distinct taste of the offal puts me off for a second try.
SALTED EGG CHICKEN SKIN (P255)
I was looking forward to sampling its Salted Egg Chicken Skin pizza; as it boasted sinful toppings such as salted egg yolk, crispy chicken skin, mozzarella and ricotta cheese. However, I found it a bit underwhelming, as I expected it to be more striking in terms of flavor. Fortunately, the chicken skin slices did not disappoint. They were well seasoned and crunchy to the bite.
If you can’t get enough of their chicken, opting for the Waffle-Breaded Fried Chicken (P295) would be a good idea. Deliciously tasty deep fried chicken thighs are given contrast by the maple butter and sriracha ketchup they’re served with. You can choose to pair it up with ciabatta toasts or a cup of white rice.
NOSE TO TAIL FETTUCINE (P275)
Featuring a medley of pork cheeks, beef briskets, ox tripe, and chicken liver, this Nose to Tail Fettucine is truly divine! I’m not a fan of liver or tripe; but these were indistinguishable next to the delectably zesty tomato sauce. This is the type of pasta I don’t mind eating all day long!
If hearty rice bowls are more of your thing, its Beef Belly with Barley (P345) and Salpicao Rice (P435) are two tasty bowls which are perfect for sharing.
Overall, this rustic concept serves up dishes which aim to delight and comfort. Apart from this, it also boasts of extensive collections of quirky beers, and coffee sourced from local beans. The restaurant is open for lunch, and is also operational until past midnight to cater to the late-night crowd.
Droolworthy Dishes: Nose to Tail Fettucine, Salpicao Rice, Waffle Breaded Fried Chicken, Beef Belly with Barley
Backyard Kitchen+Brew
2F, UP Town Center,
Katipunan Avenue, Quezon City
Date of Visit: April 2, 2015 with Wilson Chua, Lily Chua, Jared Chua, and Jem Chua
GREEN PASTURES
Chef Goco’s Green Pastures definitely served as a forerunner in blazing a trail for the mass acceptance of the farm to table concept. From its widely supported first branch in Shangri-la Mall (I remember the deadly 2 hour waiting time); it gained enough momentum to open another branch in Eastwood Mall.
STRACCIATELLA (P325)
One thing to die-for in Green Pastures would be its cheese selection; the lovely buffalo milk and arugula combination of the Stracciatella was divine. A pinch of salt in every smear of cheese does wonders to bring out the lovely flavor of the cheese. People often fuss over its Tequila Joe’s Organic Beef salpicao (which I find a bit bland), and its Octopus and Bone Marrow pasta (which I find too fishy); when it’s the cheese selection which deserves more attention!
PORCHETTA (P425)
I was a bit misled by Green Pastures’ Porchetta. I didn’t expect that it would be served in sandwich form. However, that did not diminish the strong tasty flavor of the herbs the porchetta was marinated with. Distinct tones of rosemary and fennel beautifully envelope the meat, which is lent contrast by the crunchy caramelized onions, and the nutty arugula inside the ciabatta slices. The potato cubes on the side also boasted of the same herby flavour as the meat does.
Green Pastures also features a selection of cold pressed elixers. I decided to try the To Hydrate variant (P230), which was a refreshing blend of cucumber, pineapple, pear, and lime, in coconut water. The restaurant also comes out with seasonal specials to keep things exciting, so better do watch out for these!
Droolworthy Dishes: Ricotta, Stracciatella, Organic Mushrooms, Milkeggshoney
Green Pastures
3F Eastwood Mall, Quezon City
Date of Visit: April 10, 2015 with Lily Chua and Jem Chua
GRACE PARK
Wrapping up this edition of Sustainable Dining, would be Margarita Fores’ Grace Park. Grace Park serves as the sophisticated and elegant sister of Cibo, evident in the details of its interiors, as well as its more mature menu selections.
BAKED CHICHARON (P250)
We started off the meal with the Baked Chicharon, which featured a tray of miniature chicharon topped with a dollop of delicious cream cheese and either a piece of prosciutto or two pieces of salmon roe as a topping for each. However, serving it baked did reduce the typical crunch we expect from the chicharon.
TRIPLE GRILLED CHEESE and SOURDOUGH (P350)
My friend, Nick, opted for a Triple Grilled Cheese sandwich on sourdough; which proved to be a heavy rendition of a classic. The cheese was wonderful melted and delightfully oozed in every bite. It also came with a handful of homemade shoestring potatoes which I cheerfully aided him in finishing.
ORGANIC ONION-GARLIC PEANUT HALIBUT (P780)
My choice for the night was a tasty crusted halibut dish served with a surprisingly delicious creamy polenta mash. I’m not a fan of polenta; but after tasting this, I won’t even mind giving up mashed potatoes for this! The meat of the fish had a nice bite to it; and a delicious subtle flavour that need not be paired with any dip or sauce. It came with fresh French beans which lent the dish an extra crunch to each bite.
What adds to the appeal of Grace Park is that its vertical layout allows for a higher degree of exclusivity in dining. The warm and attentive service of the waiting staff further adds to the charm of the restaurant. If you're looking for a quiet place to grab dinner, this is the perfect place for you!
Grace Park
GF One Rockwell, Rockwell Drive
Rockwell Center, Poblacion, Makati City
Date of Visit: May 4, 2015 with Nick Castro