The Goose Station: It’s all in the Little Things

Tasting menus are usually priced far beyond the reach of my budget, but thanks to my new guilty pleasure (browsing through Deal Grocer), I was able to chance upon a deal for a 5-course degustacion from The Goose Station for just Php 1,500.00. Its 9 course set usually carries a P2,800 price tag; while its express menu of 5 courses ranges from P1,650 to P2,500.

Thrilled by this discounted price, I immediately bought a coupon for myself, and dragged my good friend, Mina Tionloc, to join me in this dining splurge.

Since its exterior was a quite dark, The Goose Station initially gave off an intimidating and unwelcoming vibe. Fortunately, the ambiance gets warmer once you get seated inside. Though the lighting was still dim; its vibe was more formal and romantic.

CRAB, MANGO, AND COCONUT

We started with the Crab, Mango, and Coconut. Prior to dining, I was aware of the famed ‘molecular gastronomy’ to be expected from the Pengson couple’s degustacion. Seeing it up close, I could not help but admire the elegance in the intricate details that make up the dish. Each element was purposely placed, and carefully thought out. This appetizer reminds me strongly of the Your Local’s Pomelo Salad, which makes use of coconut ice cream as the dressing of the salad. Enveloped in a delicate sap, the coconut ice cream is light, and subtly sweet which pairs well with the pickled mango slithers.

FILIPINIANA EGGS BENEDICT

The next dish we were served with pleased my inner OCD tendencies, as tiny chunks of ingredients were neatly placed next to each other surrounding a beautifully poached egg atop a golden yellow sweet potato mash. Since I didn’t want to mess the plating up, I decided to devour each piece according to its order in the queue. Alternating chunks of atchara or pickled vegetables, cubes of Davao goat cheese, crunchy corn flakes, and succulent pork belly pieces proved to be a treat for the senses. The pork belly slice may be a tiny piece, but its intense flavor would definitely make you do a double take.

FOIE GRAS TAHO

The Foie Gras Taho had all the makings of an exquisite course. It featured a foie gras custard, simmered in a blend of miso and sherry, served with mushroom slices and chives. This grown-up version of the childhood classic taho was completed with tapioca pearls. However, its richness would tend to overwhelm you halfway through the bowl. Perhaps, a smaller serving of this course would have made me enjoy the dish more.

AUSTRALIAN WAGYU RIB EYE

Our main dish came in the form of a wonderfully cooked strip of Australian Wagyu Rib Eye cooked in a red wine sauce. The steak was perfectly tender, and mouth-wateringly juicy. It paired well with the potato puree, which had the pleasantly surprising kick of horseradish. I loved the ingenuity behind the dehydrated caviar powder, but the powder’s texture was too coarse and crunchy that made it a bit unpleasant to eat. The steak itself was already salty enough on its own; thus, it didn’t really need the support of the caviar for flavor.

CALAMANSI TART

The plating of the Calamansi Tart also won me over. There is a beauty in its organized abstract manner of plating. This deconstructed Calamansi Tart featured squares of butter cookies, small bars of pili nut, crushed pili nuts, calamansi glaze, and ice cream. The calamansi glaze was overwhelmingly concentrated that I almost gave up on the dish. Fortunately, it came with some ice cream which helped balance out the sourness of the glaze.

Overall, I was completely won over by the plating and the playful innovativeness displayed by each dish, as well as the impeccable service of the crew. However, the food quality was not as exceptional as I expected. Despite having a number of issues with some of its courses, I wouldn’t say no to another serving of its Filipiniana Eggs Benedict or its Crab, Mango, and Coconut starter. I won’t say no to trying another of its course sets (like its interesting set paying homage to Rizal), but perhaps, I won’t be as gung-ho as I was to try it for the first time.

The Goose Station

GF W Tower, 39th St., Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City

Date of Visit: September 4, 2015 with Mina Tionloc